Jeans, jeans, jeans

Here are those jeans I keep talking about! A pair for A and a pair for me. My hope is to gradually replace all of A's poorly fitting RTW jeans with handmade versions. Maybe I can even get him to try a different color of denim--something crazy like gray! My RTW jeans are also aging--the youngest pair is from 2015/16?! How is that possible?

You need a belt, mister!

I didn't make any changes to the fit of A's jeans from last time. The free pattern (101 Le Droit from 1083, which I can no longer find on their website) doesn't come with any instructions, so I use the Closet Case Pattern Jeans Making e-booklet (which has been replaced by the Sew Your Dream Jeans online class) supplemented by the Closet Case Patterns button fly tutorial. I used some quilting cotton for the pocket lining (teal with white arrows) that I found in the remnant bin at Joann Fabrics (here's a link). Perfect for an archaeologist, and there was enough that I could make my pocket lining of the same fabric! Secret twins!

I finished all of the seams (except for the fly guard) with a 3-thread overlocking stitch using turquoise thread for a little more internal excitement. The fly guard seams and bottom of the waistband lining were finished using bias tape made from the pocket lining fabric.

Topstitching was done using Güttermann topstitching thread in taupe. The buttons are from Wawak's awesome jeans button box. A chose the copper color, and I used matching rivets, also from Wawak.

 A is happy with the fit, and so am I! Certainly a pattern I will use again.

My jeans were made from the Closet Case Pattern Ginger Skinny Jeans view A:

I have made these before in a white stretch denim (unblogged). This dark wash stretch denim (bought when an online fabric store was closing a couple years ago) a is little heavier with a little less stretch than the white denim, so some of the seam allowances are less than 5/8 inch after fitting. I made sure to give my knees and calves a bit more wearing ease than on the first pair (they have a tendency to scrunch up around the knees when I sit down). Next time I make these, I will use a wider seam allowance along the side seam to make fitting easier, given how variable this can be depending on the stretch of the fabric! Pocket linings, seam finishings, and top stitching all mirror A's jeans, except I used a zipper rather than a button fly. My waistband button is the antique brass color from the same Wawak button box with matching rivets.

I'm very happy with the fit this time. There are a few wrinkles below the butt, but they don't bother me. I certainly don't want to overfit and not be able to move in these suckers!

I haven't hemmed my jeans yet, just serged the bottoms and turned them up. I will let them shrink up in the wash a couple of times before hemming. A likes his jeans a bit short, so I hemmed his already.

I tried something new to finish the ends of the waistband. Instead of turning it inside out, sewing, trimming, and turning, I folded everything the way I wanted (right side out), did some hammering to decrease bulk, pinned, and topstitched all the way around the waistband. I'm very happy with the results; I feel like I had a lot more control than I would have with turning those bulky seams right side out. 

Here's the waistband pinned

Here it is topstitched shut

Some thoughts about sewing jeans:

I really enjoy having the space to set up three machines next to each other, including my serger, my daily sewing machine threaded for topstitching (it didn't complain once about the layers of 11 oz denim on A's jeans), and an old sewing machine threaded in navy blue for seams.

I got a mini anvil for Christmas to use for hammering in buttons and rivets. I love feeling like a little elf in Santa's workshop! Not sure why I associate elves with anvils, but there it is.

I highly recommend both of these patterns (if you can't find the 101 pattern on the 1083 website, I suggest e-mailing them--it may still be available for public use). I will certainly be using them again as I gradually replace all of our RTW jeans. There are a few other pants patterns in my collection that I'd like to try as well, including the Closet Case Pattern Morgan Boyfriend Jeans (for me), the True Bias Lander Pants (for me), and the Thread Theory Jutland Pants (cargo pants for A).

Ginger Jeans view A
White tank pattern rubbed-off from old RTW tank

That's it for now. Until next time, happy sewing and stay safe!