Pattern review: Lisette for Butterick 6244

This pattern (Lisette for Butterick 6244) was a pleasure to sew! The fabric behaved, there were few seams, and the seam finishes and the fit are very nice.

Pattern Description: The Oliver + S website description is spot-on: "Semi-fitted unlined coat with shawl collar has only three pattern pieces. The cascading front gives an elegant line, and the jacket is finished with flat-felled seams to give an elegant finish with minimal effort. This is a great piece for a beautiful wool coating or a double-faced wool. The fully lined dress is fitted through the bodice and includes piecing at the shoulders and sides for a contrast or coordinating fabric. The dress is finished with an invisible zipper." I only sewed the coat--perhaps I will try the dress another time using mixed materials (a good way to use up some remnants).

Pattern Sizing: I am 5'7" and my measurements are bust 31", waist 27.5", hips 33". I started with size 8, and made a 1/2" wide shoulder adjustment on each size". No other fitting adjustments.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Very similar except for design changes as noted below, which resulted in a more angled bottom corner.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes! I thought the diagrams were especially helpful for the tricky point where the front bust dart and collar extension meet the back.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Love the finished product! There's nothing I found off-putting.

Fabric Used: 100% acrylic fabric from JoAnn Fabrics (here's a link). This was easy to press and manipulate, but tended to unravel quickly. I finished the shoulder seams with a 3-thread overlocked stitch; the rest of the seams were flat-felled.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I ignored the grainline marked on the pattern front and cut the fronts so the center edge aligned with the beautiful selvage. I was also able to sew a length of selvage onto the collar, so that design element carried through.

I shortened the jacket by about 7" and changed the hemline to align with the fabric design. The bottom and sleeves were finished with a narrow hem.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? It's a very unique design. I will sew it again in the future, but probably not soon. I would definitely recommend it to others!

Conclusion: It's cozy, but doesn't make me overheat--it was perfect for spring in Minnesota! I am very pleased with the pattern and the finished product.

That's it for now. Until next time, happy sewing and stay safe!

Friday check-in: Checking my white privilege (and other updates)

I know there are few readers who will make their way to this post, but I want to use this small platform to remind you that Black Lives Matter. The inherent societal and economic disparities based on skin color and propagated by institutional racism have long been abundantly clear to me in the practice of medicine (I work at an urban safety net hospital). The higher proportion of morbidity (illness and it's complications) and mortality (deaths) seen in black and brown people during COVID-19 are well recognized. These and other "health disparities" are due to racism, even if we are afraid to call it that. The term "social determinants of health" sounds so much nicer. 

How do I address racism in medicine? I check myself, my judgments, and my privilege constantly. I listen to my patients' stories and recognize the power of the narrative for healing. I donate to causes that will help my patients, and I vote for candidates with policies and platforms that are most likely to address racism.

Based on the discussions I have been following in the sewing work, I also want to recognize that Black Makers Matter. I will expand the circle of black and brown makers whom I follow on Instagram (including #blkmakersmatter and #blackmakersmatter) or add to my blog roll. I will try to "vote with my dollar" and buy patterns and fabrics from BIPOC-owned or explicitly BIPOC-friendly companies (here is a link to a list of such businesses from Jacinda Green). I will regularly subscribe to SEWN Magazine by Michelle Morris (That Black Chic).  

I will consider the presence of racism in other areas of my life. I will continue to learn how to be a better anti-racist. And--most importantly--I will raise my children to be anti-racist.  

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Now on to less important matters! Since my last Friday update, I have sewn two more pairs of scrubs. Here's one of them:

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#memademay2020 Day 21 #scrubspattern from @laura_sewdifferent, @cottonandsteel quilting cotton from @harts_fabric. #isewmyownclothes #sewist #minneapolissews #doctorssew #latergram #workselfie

A post shared by Michelle Carlson (@mdelilahcarlson) on May 26, 2020 at 9:22pm PDT

I have been trying to adjust the fit on the shoulders, varying it a bit on each pair, but, after wearing the original blue floral pair today, I have decided that the original fit is indeed best (sigh).

I pulled a couple of clothes out of the refit/refashion bag, and was able to alter a green maternity sweater and a lovely teal knit dress to fit my current shape.

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#memademay2020 Day 25: Maternity sweater dyed and fitted to a non-pregnant body! #refashion #imakemyownclothes #sewist #minneapolissews #doctorssew

A post shared by Michelle Carlson (@mdelilahcarlson) on May 27, 2020 at 10:19am PDT

I also finished the navy V-neck sweater and tan button front pencil skirt that I cut out late in winter, which completes that wardrobe:

What am I sewing now? Two very prolonged home decor projects. These are not the most inspiring, given the repetitive nature of the sewing, but they are very meditative, which I am trying to embrace. We are re-doing our master bathroom, and I am sewing new curtains. I was able to use a lovely white on white cotton as well as a plain white cotton that my grandma gifted me from her stash. The machine sewing is done, but I am still working on adding sashiko stitching to the top and bottom bands. I am using these needles and this thread (not affiliate links), and I'm happy with the results:

I am also making a new cover for our duvet. It is 11 years old and still going strong, but looking a bit worn! I am using 110 inch-wide fabric (normally used for quilt backing) and adding machine quilting in different colors. It is taking longer than I expected...I keep reminding myself how amazing it is going to look when it is finished (I hope).

What's up next? I have one more pair of scrubs cut out and ready to sew. Then I think it's time to start on my summer wardrobe. I'm trying to add more casual items to my closet--my work wardrobe is in pretty good shape.

That's it for now. Until next time, happy sewing and stay safe!