2017 Frocktober #1

I was inspired to make this sixties style dress by BurdaStyle's Member Model Challenge. Due to the combination of a newborn and choosing a fabric too late, it was not completed in time for the deadline. I took my time finishing it instead, and I'm much happier with the result than I would be had I rushed! Since most of the construction was done in October, it qualifies for Petite Passions #wardrobebuilder October challenge of "Vintage."

Wrinkles due to stance, not the need for a swayback adjustment!

The fabric is Telio Double Weave Stretch Suiting in Emerald from fabric.com (not an affiliate link) and is 68% polyester/24% rayon with 5% four-way stretch. I washed and dried it on a gentle setting. It did not press easily (I had to use my clapper), but the benefit of that is excellent wrinkle resistance! I only used 1.5 yards (not the suggested 2.2 meters/2.4 yards). The fabric feels lovely and soft, and I think the solid color displays the design lines to best advantage.  

BurdaStyle 09/2006 #193

The pattern is BurdaStyle 09/2006 #193, and I cut a size 38. The fitting gave me some trouble due to my small bust. I usually have no trouble with a small bust adjustment, but the unique gathers at the top of the bust made a bust adjustment beyond my drafting skills. Instead I changed the waist darts to deep pleats. My hope is that the excess fabric over the bust looks like a "design feature"! What do you think? Am I deluding myself? Any suggestions for a method of adjusting the bust in this situation for the future?

Bust close-up on the dressform

The inside seams were serged and pressed open. The gathered elements at the neckline were tricky and a bit time consuming (I sewed them by hand). They looked pretty messy inside when done, so I backed them with scraps of lining fabric from my stash. Sorry I forgot to take a before picture! The neckline and armholes were finished with bias binding catch-stitched down on the inside.

Inside the bodice

The bottom hem was finished with seam tape and a 2 inch wide handstitched hem. I didn't need to adjust the length at all, either in the bodice or the skirt. The invisible zipper insertion on the left went in beautifully! Then I had to unpick half of it for a fitting adjustment at the hips. :( Luckily it still looks pretty good.

I am very pleased with the finished product! It's a fun dress. I wore it to a retirement party with a shawl for warmth:

I probably won't make it again. Its a very specific style, and I don't need more than one in my wardrobe! I will definitely consider using the fabric again, though, particularly if it wears well (perhaps some navy trousers?). It's quite comfortable with that small amount of stretch, but thick enough to use as bottomweight.