2017 Frocktober #1

I was inspired to make this sixties style dress by BurdaStyle's Member Model Challenge. Due to the combination of a newborn and choosing a fabric too late, it was not completed in time for the deadline. I took my time finishing it instead, and I'm much happier with the result than I would be had I rushed! Since most of the construction was done in October, it qualifies for Petite Passions #wardrobebuilder October challenge of "Vintage."

Wrinkles due to stance, not the need for a swayback adjustment!

The fabric is Telio Double Weave Stretch Suiting in Emerald from fabric.com (not an affiliate link) and is 68% polyester/24% rayon with 5% four-way stretch. I washed and dried it on a gentle setting. It did not press easily (I had to use my clapper), but the benefit of that is excellent wrinkle resistance! I only used 1.5 yards (not the suggested 2.2 meters/2.4 yards). The fabric feels lovely and soft, and I think the solid color displays the design lines to best advantage.  

BurdaStyle 09/2006 #193

The pattern is BurdaStyle 09/2006 #193, and I cut a size 38. The fitting gave me some trouble due to my small bust. I usually have no trouble with a small bust adjustment, but the unique gathers at the top of the bust made a bust adjustment beyond my drafting skills. Instead I changed the waist darts to deep pleats. My hope is that the excess fabric over the bust looks like a "design feature"! What do you think? Am I deluding myself? Any suggestions for a method of adjusting the bust in this situation for the future?

Bust close-up on the dressform

The inside seams were serged and pressed open. The gathered elements at the neckline were tricky and a bit time consuming (I sewed them by hand). They looked pretty messy inside when done, so I backed them with scraps of lining fabric from my stash. Sorry I forgot to take a before picture! The neckline and armholes were finished with bias binding catch-stitched down on the inside.

Inside the bodice

The bottom hem was finished with seam tape and a 2 inch wide handstitched hem. I didn't need to adjust the length at all, either in the bodice or the skirt. The invisible zipper insertion on the left went in beautifully! Then I had to unpick half of it for a fitting adjustment at the hips. :( Luckily it still looks pretty good.

I am very pleased with the finished product! It's a fun dress. I wore it to a retirement party with a shawl for warmth:

I probably won't make it again. Its a very specific style, and I don't need more than one in my wardrobe! I will definitely consider using the fabric again, though, particularly if it wears well (perhaps some navy trousers?). It's quite comfortable with that small amount of stretch, but thick enough to use as bottomweight. 

Summer Sleepwear

Summer pajamas

This pajama set was sewn for August's Wardrobe Builder sleepwear challenge (from Laura at The Petite Passions). I was inspired by Closet Case Patterns Carolyn Pajamas, but rather than buying another pattern to add to my already too big collection, I decided to use 2 patterns already in my stash: BurdaStyle 12/2014 #133 (free on the BurdaStyle website) and McCall's 2101 (OOP but a copy is available on Amazon).

BurdaStyle 12/2014 #133 Pajama Top

McCall's 2101 Drawstring Pants

BurdaStyle 12/2014 #133 is a drop shoulder button up pajama shirt with a deep back pleat. I cut a size 38, but narrowed the front and back by 1 inch (I was concerned there would be too much wearing ease for my taste). I drafted separate front facings, a pocket facing, and separate cuffs for piping insertion and also added piping to the collar. I left out the bottom pockets and changed the straight hem to a shirttail hem. Based on fit in the shoulders, I will add back the ease I removed for my next version! I think I also need to lengthen the top.

McCall's 2101 is a pattern for drawstring pants. I sewed view E (the shorts), size medium with about 1.5 inches of ease taken out of the hips (I will add a bit back for the next version). I adjusted the crotch to fit my pants sloper a bit more closely while still maintaining a relaxed fit. I drafted separate cuffs to allow piping insertion and added seamed pockets and a faux fly.

The fabric came from a set of old sheets. I didn't realize the fabric was directional with a different shade depending on which way is up until my husband pointed out that the top and bottom of the set are different colors! Oops. Good thing they're just pajamas!

Piping detail. Buttons from my stash. 

I used a soft cotton fabric from my stash to make the bias binding for the piping. There was enough of this fabric left to make a camisole as well! 

I have  been wanting to find a TNT cami pattern, so I made the Diana cami from Spit Up and Stilettos/Sew Loft (free pattern hosted at Hoopes Parks Studio), size S at the bust graded to M at the waist in the soft pink cotton. I compared this to the Ogden cami from True Bias (size 2) in a pink and purple quilting cotton (also from my stash). The Odgen is one of my #2017makenine, so it feels good to check that off! Neither pattern has any darts to worry about. The Diana is finished at the top with bias binding and has an interesting back strap style; the Ogden is finished with a facing and is definitely a faster sew!

Here's the Diana:

Back detail without hair in the way!

And the Ogden:

(Right strap is sewn in properly -- just twisted in the photo!)

I prefer the way the Ogden fits me, though I will probably use the Diana back detail again at some point. I love that the Ogden takes less than 1 yard of fabric and that it's such a quick sew! Unlike the Diana, it's not free, but it's very well drafted and is a nice basis for hacks (see True Bias, Threadbear Garments, trine.schroeder, lindsayinstitches, and Sew Busy Lizzy). There's a reason it's so popular in the sewing blogosphere! I will be sewing up several more for winter layering in a drapier fabric than quilting cotton. 😉 I also plan on making the pajama set again for winter in a pink and purple striped cotton flannel. I will make the pants long, but keep the top short sleeved.

This last summer I also made a robe, so my summer loungewear is complete! I used the free kimono Robe pattern from Connecting Threads. The dark purple fabric was a sheet rescued from the thrift store and the lining fabric is more of the lavender sheets the pajamas are made from. I used the patterned portions of the sheet for the back, cuffs, and collar and added ribbon belt loops for the tie. At the moment it's the perfect weight, though I may want to make a heavier robe for the dead of winter!

Do you have a TNT camisole pattern that you prefer? November is TNT month at the Sewcialists--the perfect chance to find one and make a few camisoles!